Hi All, I was after a little advice from people on the forum in relation to stacking software for the mac. Having done a little research Starry Landscape Stacker Stacker seems to be a popular choice due to its low cost and ease of use. Before I pull the trigger and purchase I did have one (okay m. Mac: Starry Landscape Stacker Starry Landscape Stacker on macOS Starry Landscape Stacker is the program I use, it is incredibly good at automatically finding the stars to make a mask for the sky, so that the foreground is not included in the alignment process.

20 images of Joshua trees stacked with Sequator

For quite some time astrophotographers have used a program called Deep Sky Stacker to align and combine multiple starry images and create a better result. Landscapes present a particular challenge, aligning the stars as they move through the sky would blur the landscape portion of the image. So programs have been created to stack the starry sky while masking and preserving the static landscape.

On a Mac, there’s Starry Landscape Stacker. On a PC, there’s Sequator. I recently built a fast Windows PC, so I downloaded Sequator to see how it performed. We capture star trails sequences of the Methodist Church on most of our workshops in Bodie, so that was a natural subject to start with.

Next I had to try something a little more interesting, like a Milky Way reflection. I noticed that the program has an HDR setting, so I pointed it at three bracketed Milky Way shots taken one stop apart in exposure.
It turned out really well for a first pass. I had to process the reflection and the sky separately, since the stars move in different ways in each, then merge the results.

Then I tried stacking 20 files from a single-exposure star trails or time-lapse sequence, shot later that night at a different focal length:
Not all of my star reflection shots worked. My sense is that you need enough stars to make the alignment work, and the physics is such that you don’t always get enough reflected stars to pull that off.

Obviously I’ll gain experience and be able to fine tune the process and results, but the initial results are very encouraging. Some of these were time-lapse or star trails sequences that I re-processed to produce a single image result for the first time. Others were two or three adjacent shots. How many images are needed at a minimum? How many optimum? Are different exposures needed for the foreground landscape? How many and at what settings? Should we shoot an HDR bracket, a sequence of images, or both: multiple HDR brackets?

The goal will be to get better results without too much impact on valuable night shooting time. I already have some ideas on how we might adjust our nighttime shooting practices, especially for those precious hours we have when we get permits to shoot at night in Bodie.

Since I originally wrote this post we’ve had a few night photography workshops in Bodie (see link above for info). That has given us the opportunity to test and develop lighting methods. We’ll be adapting our shooting and post-processing approach to still allow single image results while also accommodating a new workflow for people who want better, lower noise results.

I’m also trying faster lenses and various sensors, the Nikkor 20mm f/1.8 on the Nikon D850, Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 on the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, and so on. I’m looking forward to bringing more photographers out there this summer (schedule). We also shoot the High Sierra in Yosemite along Tioga Pass Road:

We will also test various techniques for desert locations that often involve more heat and sensor noise during Milky Way season, such as the California desert and high desert locations in Nevada:

Our newest edits are looking best, so we’re gradually learning what we can pull off with the new workflow, from image capture to post-processing. We’re incorporating this into our shooting and post-processing flow for our workshops. We also hope to add Zoom calls soon to demonstrate and discuss what we’ve learned. Contact us to receive details when we’re ready to launch.

Astrophotography is closer to science than art, and there is no such thing as “getting it right in camera.” This means you cannot simply point the camera at the sky and snap away.

In astrophotography you cannot avoid post processing your images, so stacking and editing your images serves three main purposes:

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Reduce noise and deal with light gradients and vignetting.
Improve signal to noise ratio.
Reveal the faint details in the image.

Image stacking is the technique used to improve the signal to noise ratio, and it is the only noise reduction method that will boost the image details rather than smear them out.

In this article, we will discuss some of the most popular software available for astrophotography image stacking.

Note: Don’t miss the detailed video at the end of this article, It was created to help show you how to quickly start using some of the stacking software mentioned in this article.
Click here to skip to our Image Stacking Demo Video.

What Does Stacking Photos Mean?

The concept behind image stacking is simple, but to appreciate how it works, there are a couple of things we have to consider:

A stack can be visualized as a pile of images all stacked one on top of the other;
Each digital image is formed by a set of pixels, all having a certain value: dark pixels will have a lower value than the bright ones;

In the simplest form of image stacking, the pixels values for all images in the stack are averaged to produce a single image.

What is the purpose of stacking photos?

The result is a single image with improved signal to noise ratio, i.e., with better details and lower (random) digital noise and better details.

The scheme below illustrates the concept.

If the considered digital noise affects the pixel values randomly across the stack, then the result of averaging the stack is that the random component of the noise to the pixel value is significantly reduced.

ISO noise and Luminance noise and Chrominancenoise are examples of digital noises that are random.

The image below shows a real-life example from stacking 30 images from my Sony RX10 bridge camera taken at ISO 6400. As you can see, the original images showed a greater deal of noise (grain) than the stacked one.

The More Images You Stack, The Better

The more images you stack, the cleaner the resulting images are, as shown in the comparison below.

While Image stacking creates a cleaner image, it often softens the image: digital sharpening techniques are then used to recover sharp looking details.

Finally, bear in mind that the progression of image quality is not linear.

If stacking 4 images improves the image quality of 50% respect what you got by stacking only 2 image

Starry Landscape Stacker Mac